Captain Cook and the promise of Norfolk Island
At daybreak, as we were standing to the west, an island was discovered bearing SWBS [southwest by south]. Soon after we sounded and had 22 fathoms water, the bottom coral sand; our distance from the isle was about 3 leagues.
– Cook’s Journal 10th October, 1774
Standing beside the simple stone monument at Cook’s lookout, and looking down at Duncombe Bay, it’s worth remembering that 250 years ago – on 10th October, 1774 – Captain James Cook and his men landed near this spot. They were the first Europeans to set foot on Norfolk Island.
Later archaeological findings would reveal Polynesian wayfarers had discovered the small, volcanic isle in the 13th or 14th century. For the next three hundred years First Nation seafarers visited these rocky shores sporadically, establishing transitory colonies, but historians believe the island had lain unoccupied for many decades before Cook’s arrival.
Famed as a cartographer, navigator and explorer Cook’s First Voyage of Discovery (1768-1771) saw him traverse the Southern Ocean in the Endeavour; mapping islands and territories as he went, and reporting on resources that might be useful to Britain and her burgeoning empire. He observed the transit of Venus in Tahiti, circumnavigated and charted New Zealand, mapped the east coast of Australia and supported Banks and Solander as they gathered, recorded and classified a wealth of new plants, animals and birds.
In the late 18th century European nations were experiencing an Industrial Revolution; with steam powered machines and new technology completely changing the way people lived and worked. As countries sought to expand their businesses, trade and influence around the globe – to the Americas, Asia and the Pacific – they wanted men like Cook to investigate these exotic new lands. Cook had become a national hero when he returned to Britain after his first epic trip, and the Admiralty was keen for him to lead another voyage ‘into the unknown’ as soon as possible.
Cook was happy to meet the challenge, but wanted to avoid the risks endured on his first journey when he had only one ship. He was careful to secure two vessels for the second expedition, and made sure his Whitby-built crafts were well provisioned and fitted with the most up-to-date equipment of the era: improved compasses, Kendall’s marine timekeeper, ice anchors and a device for desalinating water. Cook took command of the Resolution with 110 men while Tobias Furneaux captained her smaller sister ship, the Adventure, with a crew of 80.
They left Plymouth on July 13th 1772, determined to sail around the world, find the Great Southern Continent – which Britain’s mapmakers still believed lay below New Zealand – and continue their exploration of the Pacific. Cook was accompanied on this Second Voyage of Discovery (1772-1775) by four ‘gentlemen’ passengers: William Hodges, a landscape artist, William Wales, an astronomer, and the father and son naturalists, Johann Reinhold Forster and George Forster. They would help Cook document the entire trip with charts, diagrams and paintings; while collecting specimens and artefacts for British scientists hungry to learn more about distant lands.
In October, 1774, Cook was two years and four months into his arduous journey, and dealing with a myriad of tasks and trials, but his enthusiasm for new discoveries had not waned. The Resolution was travelling solo and was supposed to rendezvous soon with the Adventure near New Zealand, but as she drew near Norfolk’s rugged cliffs, Cook and his subordinates continued to take soundings and readings. The island appeared to be deserted and, at midday, Cook reported gentle winds from the southeast and east-southeast. He wrote:
“After dinner [we] hoisted out two boats in which myself, some of the officers and gentlemen went to take a view of the Island and its produce. We found no difficulty in landing behind some rocks which lined part of the coast and defended it from the surf. We found the Island uninhabited and near akin to New Zealand; the flax plant, many other plants and trees common to that country was found here but the chief produce of the isle is Spruce Pines which grow here in vast abundance and to a vast size; from two-or-three feet diameter and upwards. It is of a different sort to those in New Caledonia and also to those in New Zealand, and for masts, yardarms etc superior to both.”
After years at sea, and as a Naval Commander, Cook saw great value in the tall, straight conifers (Araucaria heterophylla) he found covering this tiny isle. Britain’s shipbuilders might now have a cheap and plentiful supply of good timber, and the local flax plants, turned into sails and ropes, would also be useful to a maritime power. Eager to test the timber’s worth Cook reported: “We cut down one of the smallest trees we could find and cut a length of the upper end to make a topgallant mast or yardarm. My carpenter tells me that the wood is exactly of the same nature as the Quebec pines. Here then is another isle where masts for the largest ships may be had.”
Cook also observed the local wildlife, water and vegetation; assessing them with crew members and his ‘gentlemen’ scientists: “Here are the same sort of pigeons, parrots and parrakeets as in New Zealand, rails [marsh birds] and some small birds. The sea fowl are white boobies, gulls, tern etc which breed undisturbed on the rocks and in the cliffs. The coast is not destitute of fish; our people caught some which were excellent while in the boats alongside the rocks…[and] the isle is supplied with fresh water and produces abundance of small cabbage palms; we cut down and brought off as many as the little time we had would admit.”
The scientists, William Wales and the Forsters, kept journals, too, and were similarly impressed by the island’s tall cliffs, towering pines, lush foliage, tasty fish, fertile soil and colourful birds. Wales noted: “…I took the opportunity of seeing our new discovery, and found the shores exceeding steep and rocky, and in most places inaccessible on that account…The Island appears of a moderate height and extremely beautiful; being everywhere almost covered with trees, many of which seem [to be] pines and pretty much like those very remarkable ones we saw at the last Island [Araucaria columnaris on the Isle of Pines].”
J R Forster agreed with Cook and Wales on the pine’s potential: “…there were trees that would afford timber for large masts.” He also enjoyed eating the local fish: “Our people caught fine fish near and on the rocks and pools, some of which were new, and all tasted well.” His son, George Forster, wrote: “The vegetables…throve with great luxuriance in a rich stratum of black mould, accumulated during ages past, from decaying trees and plants.” George also commented on the indigenous birds, similar to those found in New Zealand, but: “…infinitely brighter coloured, though evidently of the same species…”
After an eventful six hours it was time to return to the ship. Cook wrote: “I took possession of this isle, as I had done of all the others we had discovered, and named it ‘Norfolk Isle’, in honour of that noble family… The approach of night brought us all on board, when we hoisted in the boats and stretched to the ENE [east-northeast] with the wind at SE [southeast]…
At midnight tacked, stood to the south and weathered the Island on the south side of which lay some high islets or rocks, which served as roosting and breeding places for birds. Being clear of the isle we stretched to the south with a fresh breeze…My design was to touch at Queen Charlotte’s Sound in New Zealand, there to refresh my people and put the ship in a condition to cross this great ocean in a high latitude once more.”
It had been a demanding day for Cook and everyone sailing with him. All the usual nautical chores had to be done, plus additional soundings, navigational measurements, mapping, topological drawings and journal entries. Crew members had rowed ashore, climbed precipitous cliffs, explored the terrain, felled trees, collected samples, gathered cabbage palms, caught fish, hunted birds and prepared the food for eating. Joseph Gilbert, Master of the Resolution had worked very hard to accurately chart and draw the new territory, and all Cook’s officers had toiled to ensure the ship was ready to sail to New Zealand at midnight.
They dealt with the continual stress and strain of life at sea while continuing to be curious about the places and societies they encountered – their brief sojourn on Norfolk taking them one step closer to home. Cook and his men did not return to Britain for another eight months, and he would never see Norfolk Island again.
The Third Voyage of Discovery (1776-1780) would end for Cook on February 14th, 1779 when he was killed on a Hawaiian beach during an altercation with Islanders. Nine years later, on March 6th, 1788, a small group of people, 15 convicts and 7 freemen, under Lieutenant Phillip Gidley King’s command, began Norfolk Island’s First European Settlement.
Cook’s glowing account of the Island’s assets encouraged the British government to establish a satellite colony on Norfolk Island a mere six weeks after the First Fleet reached Australia. Ironically, the promise of Cook’s abundant pines and flax would not be realised and eventually both resources would be declared unsuitable for maritime use. The great explorer had, however, described the wonders he saw to the wider world and inspired Europeans to live on Norfolk’s shores, thereby changing its story forever.
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Image Credit: Robin Nisbet
www.robinnisbet.com
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Article content disclaimer: Article first published in Discover Norfolk, Volume 07 Issue 02, 2024. Please note that details of specific travel, accommodation and touring options may be outdated. References to people, places and businesses, including operating days and times may be have changed. References to Government structure and Government businesses/entities may no longer be applicable. Please check directly with businesses and/or Government websites directly rather than relying on any information contained in this article before you make travel arrangements.
